My favorite herbs for flu care are diaphoretics, to stimulate sweating.*
I like diaphoretics because they support the body’s natural response rather than “fighting” the illness. (I’m not a big fan of the body-as-battleground theory of disease, but that’s a topic for another post.)
Some of my favorite diaphoretic herbs: lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), bee balm (Monarda didyma or M. fistulosa), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), elder flowers & berries (Sambucus nigra) and ginger (Zingiber officinale).
Elderberry and ginger make a delicious tea that you might want to drink all winter, whether you’re sick or not!
To make pink ginger tea:
Slice up 2-3 inches of fresh ginger.
Put the ginger in a pot and cover it with about a quart of water.
Add 2-3 tablespoons of elderberry (frozen, canned, juice, syrup or dried).
Simmer the mixture until it tastes strongly of ginger—usually at least 15 minutes. (The tea turns a muddy purple-brown as it simmers. Don’t worry, we’ll fix it.)
When it’s ready, remove the tea from the heat, let it sit a minute to cool, and add good quality raw honey** to taste. (Don’t boil raw honey. You’ll kill the enzymes.)
Now for the magic. Squeeze the juice from one small or half a large lemon. Add it to the tea. Watch the color change from muddy to clear pink!
Drink hot, preferably while wrapped in a blanket.
*The simple definition of diaphoretic: an agent that stimulates sweating. But as Samuel Potter points out in his 1902 Materia Medica, diaphoretic is derived from the Greek meaning “I carry through.” Diaphoretic herbs help carry heat and energy through the body, promoting excretion through the skin.
**You have to be careful with honey. Most US beekeepers use toxic miticides to keep their bees alive. Talk to your beekeeper, buy organic honey (expensive, if you can get it), or use a reliable supplier like Honey Gardens in Vermont.
Winter cold care: lymph love.
Now that we finally have a bit of winter here in Vermont, people are starting to get sick. The symptoms are familiar: a slight sniffle, rawness in the throat, pressure in the ears, swollen lymph nodes.
Here are my favorite ways to care for this kind of winter cold:
1. Topical tinctures. I like to drip lymphatic and tonic herbs directly onto the surface of the tonsils. (If you want to try this, hold the dropper right up against the back of the inside of your cheek, with your head tilted back. Do a few drops on each side.) Some herbs I use this way: lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), red root (Ceanothus americanus), ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea) and goldenseal (Hydrastis canadensis). (Only use cultivated organic goldenseal, NEVER wildcrafted—this is an endangered plant.)
It’s best to experiment and see what feels right, since these herbs have really different personalities. Lemon balm is soothing and stimulating; red root is strongly astringent; ground ivy is astringent too, but gentler; goldenseal is an amazing all-around mucous membrane tonic, but be prepared for bitter if you use it this way.
2. Neck massage helps the lymph system drain (pay special attention to the area under the collarbones—this is where the lymphatic ducts empty into the bloodstream).
3. There’s nothing like a good whole-body stretch or a pleasant walk to get the lymph system moving.
4. Hot herbal face cloths feel really good, and they also encourage circulation and drainage. Just soak a washcloth in strong, hot herbal tea and press it to your face. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) are lovely, but you can use any aromatic herb.
5. And, of course, there’s always chicken soup.
P.S. I’m extra geeky about the lymphatic system lately. Check out this amazing drawing.
There was a nasty, hot, lung-drying bug going around these parts this spring. Turns out the perfect thing for it is one of your lawn’s best-kept secrets: blender juice.
Specifically, blender juice made of cooling, soothing, mucilaginous plants. Plantains (Plantago spp.), chickweed (Stellaria media), violets (Viola spp.), and mallows (Malva spp.) are especially nice.
(This combination is also wonderful for hot, irritated digestive systems — think ulcers, “Irritable Bowel Syndrome” / IBS, and other inflammatory conditions.)
Making blender juice is a great way to get the fresh, green, cooling properties from just about any plant.
Here’s how to do it:
Pick your plants.
Rinse them off if you need to.
Toss them in the blender with a bit of water.
Blend.
I like to let them sit for a while to infuse, then blend a little more and strain. But you can just go ahead and strain after the first blending if you need to.
Drink.
(Hot tip: mallow/plantain/chickweed/violet blender juice is wonderful sponged on a sunburn.)
Simmering: winter fun with stockpot and teapot.
This month’s herbal blog party is “Winter Recipes,” hosted by Dreamseeds.
Most of my winter herbal recipes involve long-simmering pots on the back of my woodstove. Tasty broths and teas that warm a person from the inside out, and make the house smell good too.
Winter is a time for concentrated, warm foods. Put away the leafy summer herbs, and get out the roots, seeds and spices. Valerian, licorice, sarsaparilla. Flaxseeds, cardamom, nutmeg. Cinnamon, ginger, cloves.
The best way to stay healthy in the winter is not to fight the fact that it’s winter. In winter, things move more slowly. We need to sleep more. We need richer, fattier foods. In winter, as mammals, we need to stay warm. (It’s quite common for people to forget to dress warmly enough for the season. It’s not unreasonable to wear a scarf indoors if you live in a drafty house.)
Good long-simmered bone broth is the best winter food I know. It’s rich in protein (gelatin) and minerals, and it warms you “to the bone.” Add some vegetables and call it soup. Use it to cook rice or beans. Or just drink it straight with a pinch of salt.
Here’s how to keep a stockpot:
1. Always save bones. (Yes, even bones that people have gnawed on. All that simmering will take care of any contamination.) Keep them in a jar or a bag in your freezer. You can separate them by animal if you like, or lump them all together for “mixed stock.”
2. When you’ve collected a good pile of bones, put them in a pot and cover them with cold water. (You can add a dash of vinegar if you like, to help draw minerals from the bones.) Put the pot over low heat. Let it come to a gentle simmer. If you’re using a gas or electric stove, turn the heat down as far as it will go. If you’ve got the stock on a woodstove, move it to a cool corner or put it up on a trivet. (I’m told you can make stock in a crockpot, too. But I’ve never used a crockpot, so I don’t know how that works.)
3. Leave the stock on gentle, low heat for 12-48 hours. (Yes, I know that’s a long time. It really does make the best stock, though.) Check on the stock every once in a while and add water if it needs it. If you’re using raw bones, there will likely be quite a bit of foamy scum that comes to the surface. Just skim it off — a little tea strainer works well for this. Try not to let the stock boil. Low heat is best for extracting gelatin. (Don’t kick yourself if it accidentally boils, though. Just turn it down. Your stock may be a little cloudy, but it will taste fine.)
4. When you can’t stand it any longer, strain out the bones. If there is a lot of fat on top, skim it off and save it for cooking (a little jar of fat in the fridge is a lovely thing). Now you have stock to play with! What will you make?
You can add warming winter spices to your stock if you like. But my favorite way to take warming spices is in tea. In winter, my “teas” are usually decoctions, simmered on the stove until they perfume the house.
Here are some of my favorite winter teas.
For people who get dry and cold in the winter: flaxseeds (Linum usitatissimum), cassia / cinnamon (Cinnamomum aromaticum), ginger (Zingiber officinale), cloves (Syzygium aromaticum), cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum) and nutmeg (Myristica fragrans).
For people who get a lot of sore throats and swollen lymph nodes in the winter: echinacea root (Echinacea angustifolia or Echinacea purpurea), red root (Ceanothus americanus), marshmallow root (Althaea officinalis).
For people who feel drained in the winter: wild sarsaparilla (Aralia nudicaulis), licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), ginseng (Panax quinquefolius) (use only organic ginseng, “woods-grown” if possible).
For people who get cold hands and feet in the winter: valerian (Valeriana officinalis), cramp bark (Viburnum opulus), wild ginger (Asarum canadense) (harvest wild ginger only if it’s locally abundant; “regular” ginger can be used instead).
Oh, yes, and for everyone, because it’s so tasty: pink ginger tea. (This is, of course, one of the best things to drink when you’re down with the flu.)
Happy simmering!
When I told the gentleman who installed our satellite internet that I’m an herbalist, he started singing the praises of Tahitian Noni Juice. Right. I told him I was sure the Noni Juice was very nice, but there were ten different just-as-useful herbs growing right by his feet in my backyard, and he could have them all for free.
See, exotic herbs with hyped-up marketing campaigns just don’t excite me. Who knows exactly what’s in those bottles anyway? And why should I give my money to big, sketchy companies when my backyard supplies just about all the herbs I could ever need?
Today I decided to go outside and make a list of the useful herbs that are growing wild right now within 20 feet of my house. The list was even longer than I thought: more than thirty very useful plants.
Here they are, with a use or two for each to give you an idea of what they’re good for. Keep in mind that many blogposts (books, even!) could be written on every one of these plants, so there is necessarily a lot left out. I just wrote the first thing that came to my mind about each one.
All Heal (Prunella vulgaris): incredible wound-healer and alterative.
Aster (Symphyotrichum spp.): valuable diaphoretic, nervine.
Black Walnut (Juglans nigra): alterative, thyroid support, skin fungus.
Blackberry (Rubus spp.): an astringent when you need it.
Burdock (Arctium lappa): liver and kidney soother, resolves scaly skin.
Catnip (Nepeta cataria): sleep for babies, stomach-calmer.
Celandine (Chelidonium majus): liver and lymphatic stimulant.
Cheeses (Malva rotundifolia): useful mucilage-laden mallow, soothes everything.
Chickweed (Stellaria media): gentle, soothing alterative and lymphatic.
Chicory (Cichorium intybus): classic bitter digestive.
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale): elimination balancer, alterative, minerals.
Goldenrod (Solidago spp.): good for sneezing allergies, digestive and urinary soother.
Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea): alterative, depurative.
Hollyhock (Alcea rosea): another wonderful, soothing mallow.
Lobelia (Lobelia inflata): antispasmodic of the first order.
Moth Mullein (Verbascum blattaria): possible lymphatic.
Peppergrass (Lepidium virginicum): respiratory stimulant.
Plantains (Plantago major & P. lanceolata): stings, wound healing (inside and out).
Pokeweed (Phytolacca americana): strong lymphatic.
Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota): kidney stones, thyroid, and birth control too!
Red Clover (Trifolium pratense): gentle lymphatic, alterative.
Scarlet Pimpernel (Anagallis arvensis): traditionally used for mania!
Sheep Sorrel (Rumex acetosella): traditional cancer herb, good vitamin c in salad.
Spiny Sow Thistle (Sonchus asper): cooling digestive tonic.
Strawberry (Fragaria spp.): gentle astringent, baby diarrhea.
Thistles (Cirsium spp.): liver and digestive tonic.
Violet (Viola sororia): so cooling, soothing, and comforting.
White Deadnettle (Lamium album): astringent, good for heavy menstrual bleeding.
White Vervain (Verbena urticifolia): bitter nervine.
Wood Sorrel (Oxalis acetosella): tasty source of vitamin c, heals old wounds.
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium): sharp cuts, internal healing, alterative.
Yellow Dock (Rumex crispus): liver stimulant, laxative.
Well, not a bad materia medica, is it? Most of these plants grow in cities, too. Medicine all around, if you look for it. (Big herb companies don’t need your money anyway.)
"Spit Poultice Herbs"
The theme of this month’s Herbal Blog Party is “Soothing recipes for irritated skin.”
Now, I can think of a lot of wonderful recipes for salves, ointments, lotions, sprays, liniments, etc. But when I think about how I use herbs in the summer for my own skin, I think of the simplest recipe of all: the “spit poultice.”
A spit poultice is exactly what it sounds like. Pick a few leaves, chew them up a bit, spit them out, and put them where they’re needed. I use spit poultices for bites and stings, scrapes, cuts, bruises, burns, and just about any other mishap my skin might encounter in the summer.
Here are some of my favorite herbs for spit poultices:
All Heal (Prunella vulgaris). All heal (also called “heal all” or “self heal”) is a great all-purpose spit poultice—no surprise, considering its name. It’s good for cuts, bruises, burns, bites, and irritations of all kinds.
Bee Balm (Monarda didyma or M. fistulosa). Also called “wild bergamot” or “sweet leaf,” bee balm is one of the best plants to poultice on burns of any kind.
Chickweed (Stellaria media). Chickweed is incredibly soothing. It’s wonderful for irritations of the eye; also stings and superficial inflammations.
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale). Comfrey poultices are good for interior swellings (bruises and sprains) and exterior abrasions (scrapes and superficial cuts).
Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea). Ground ivy is a great poultice for bruises, especially dark purple ones (think of the classic black eye).
Moneywort (Lysimachia nummularia). Moneywort (also called “creeping jenny”) is a good poultice for all sorts of wounds, especially old ones that refuse to close.
Plantain (Plantago major or P. lanceolata). Plantain is the classic spit poultice herb. A plantain spit poultice is the best thing I know of for any kind of bite or sting. It works great for redness and swelling in general, too.
Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria). This much-maligned plant makes a great poultice for running sores and ulcers.
Violet (Viola sororia or V. odorata). Violet’s mucilage makes it lovely for burns (including sunburn), but it’s also great for bruises, irritations, and swellings.
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium). Yarrow is especially good for deep, clean cuts. Bruises, too. It’s one of the best herbs to stop bleeding, particularly when there’s thin, bright red blood.
Most of these are common underfoot plants. If you need a spit poultice, you can usually look around and find at least two or three of them. And most of them are good for most skin problems in a pinch. (But don’t use comfrey on deep wounds—it can cause the skin to heal over a wound that isn’t ready to be sealed off.)
Dandelion week: anatomy of the lion’s tooth.
Dandelion tinctures, from left to right: root, leaf, flower.
So clearly dandelion is not dandelion is not dandelion.
Dandelion Root
Taste: earthy-sweet-bitter.
Temperature: cool.
Affinity: liver, gallbladder, digestion.
Action: nourishing, tonic.
Dandelion Leaf
Taste: fresh-salty-bitter.
Temperature: cold.
Affinity: kidneys, bladder, blood.
Action: stimulating, draining.
Dandelion Flower
Taste: bright-honey-sweet.
Temperature: neutral or slightly cool.
Affinity: heart, mind.
Action: comforting, brightening.
Dandelion week: the bite of the lion’s tooth.
Like I said yesterday, dandelion’s old common name is “pissabed.” So we know it’s had a long and intimate relationship with the human urinary tract. But dandelion is so much more than a simple diuretic.
Nicholas Culpeper was on the right track in his 1653 Herbal (1814 edition):
It is of an opening and cleansing quality, and therefore very effectual for the obstructions of the liver, gall and spleen, and the diseases that arise from them . . . it opens the passages of the urine in both young and old; powerfully cleanses imposthumes and inward ulcers in the urinary passage, and by its drying and temperate quality doth afterwards heal them.
So my favorite technical word for dandelion is not diuretic but “deobstruent”: Dandelion opens what is blocked.
Now, don’t go running around giving dandelion to everyone who feels sluggish, stuck, or constipated—a lot of those people are “cold” or depleted, and dandelion is for sluggishness associated with heat and excess (the Chinese say “fire poison”). Dandelion is especially good for heat associated with dampness or “bogginess”—think Mississippi Delta on an August evening.
So dandelion opens what is blocked, cools what is irritated, and drains what is soggy.
But don’t forget that dandelion is not dandelion is not dandelion. Each part—root, leaf, and flower—works differently. (Hint: This is tomorrow’s topic.)
Dandelion week: history of the little lion’s tooth.
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) has been used medicinally for as long as people have bothered to write about such things. It might be native to the Middle East (but no one’s really sure) and it’s traveled to just about every corner of the temperate world by now.
Maude Grieve says in her Modern Herbal:
The name of the genus, Taraxacum, is derived from the Greek taraxos(disorder), and akos (remedy), on account of the curative action of the plant.
Now, Mrs. Grieve’s etymology is poetic for an herbalist, but the Oxford English Dictionary disagrees:
Medieval Latin from Arabic, ultimately Persian. The Synonymia Arabo-Latinaof Gerard of Cremona (died 1189) has ‘Tarasacon, species cichorei’. This appears to have been a corruption or misreading of the Arabic nametarakhshaqoq or tarkhshaqoq, itself according to the Burhan-i-Kati (native Persian lexicon), originally an arabicized form of the Persian talkh chakok‘bitter herb’.
Dandelion is of course from the French “lion’s tooth” (dent de lion), but these days the French just call it pissenlit, “piss-the-bed”—which also happens to be an old-time English name for the plant. In 1565 John Hall wrote in his Courte of Vertu, “Lyons tooth, That Chyldren call Pysbed.” (OED entry for pissabed.)
Pissabed. Remember that. It’s a pretty good first clue to how dandelion works.
Dandelion week.
It’s dandelion week here in the Herbwife’s Kitchen. That is to say, it’s spring!
I’m scouring the yard for lovely little lion’s teeth, trying to get them before my housemate’s lawnmower does.
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) is one of my favorite plants. It’s incredibly versatile. Each part—flower, leaf, root—has totally different properties, and each can be prepared in so many different ways.
This week, in celebration of spring, I’m going to make dandelion every way I can think of (tinctures, infusions, food of all sorts), and write about the highlights here.
The beetles, order Coleoptera, constitute the single largest group of animals on earth. Approximately one quarter of all animal species known to science, and a third of all described insects, are beetles. There are almost 30,000 species known in the US and Canada and roughly ten times that number in the world. With such great diversity, the beetles have a great number of different life styles. There are plant feeders, scavengers, fungus feeders, parasites of vertebrate animals, predators, and true parasitoids of other insects. Beetles occur in virtually all habitable terrestrial and freshwater environments. Within individual families of beetles there is generally some uniformity of life history. For example, almost all ground beetles are predaceous and the leaf beetles are mostly all leaf feeders. The life histories within some families are a bit more variable. For example, although the majority of members of the lady beetle family are predators, a few species (such as the pestiferous Mexican bean beetle) are plant feeders, and others are fungus feeders.
Most lady beetles overwinter in the adult stage, and many form overwintering aggregations. Adults become active in spring when new plant growth has started and aphid colonies have begun to build. Eggs are laid near the prey. Many of the aphidophagous species lay clusters of 10-50 yellow to orange, oblong eggs. Females of aphidophagous species are capable of producing 500-1000 eggs each, over a period of one to two months. The eggs hatch in a few days, and the larvae begin feeding and continue to grow through the four instars. When the last larval stage is fully grown, pupation occurs, usually on a plant part, such as foliage or stem, where the larva was when it finished feeding. The pupal stage lasts about a week. The adults mate fairly soon after they emerge, and females begin laying eggs within about one week. On average, lady beetles require about a month to complete their life cycle. In warm tropical climates, lady beetles are active year-round. In the upper Midwest, there are generally 2-3 generations per year.
The common species of lady beetles – those that are larger, orange or red, often with black spots – are most frequently specialized predators of aphids. The number of aphids that can be consumed by a lady beetle varies somewhat with species of both predator and prey, and also with environmental conditions such as temperature. But on average, fourth instar larvae (the last and largest larval stage) consume about 50 aphids per day, a number very similar to that consumed by the adult beetles. The species of lady beetles that are aphid predators will occasionally take other types of insects and mites as food. However, the adults generally lay their eggs only where there are large numbers of preferred prey (aphids) available for their offspring. Therefore, many of these lady beetle species are better at reducing large numbers of aphids that may already be causing plant damage, rather than keeping small aphid populations from getting larger. Adult lady beetles may require other food in addition to prey, and many feed on flower pollen, nectar, or honeydew.
Many ground beetles have a single generation per year, but some complete two or three generations annually, and others may live 2-5 years. Usually it is the adult stage that overwinters. The larvae are also predators, but most spend their larval lives in the soil or other protected locations. Although ground beetles are generalist predators, and are frequently abundant, they may not always provide good pest control. The adults of many species will also feed on plant material, including pollen, fungi, and decaying plants; a few species feed on seeds, while a few others are considered to be damaging to agricultural crops.
This is a very large, diverse group with more than 29,000 species. They are mostly small to tiny, slender, and often black in color. The elytra (the first pair of wings in the beetles, which are hardened to cover and protect the beetle's abdomen) are very short in the rove beetles, so that several abdominal segments are exposed. Many species are nocturnal, and many are found associated with the ground, such as under leaf litter or stones, or in loose soil. Some rove beetles apparently are scavengers, but many are general predators, in both the adult and larval stages. Some have been shown to be important natural enemies of the eggs and larvae of flies that breed in manure or similar habitats. Some types occur in vegetation where they prey on plant pests.
A dult 
Adult 
Scarab beetles, including dung beetles, chafers and others,
The dung beetles lay their eggs in underground chambers that the adults supplied with dung of grazing animals, where the larvae feed and pupate, emerging as adults. Some dung beetles form balls of dung that they roll about with their hind legs, sometimes for long distances and sometimes working in pairs. Eventually they bury the ball and lay eggs in it. These scarabs play a very important role in the rapid recycling of organic matter and the disposal of disease-breeding wastes.
The largest of beetle families, with about 48,000 species worldwide, is comprised almost entirely of plant feeders, either on plants or stored grains. They are easily recognized by their elongated snout and elbowed antennae on the snout. The beetles’ mouthparts are on the end of the snout, which they use to drill holes in fruits or seeds. When disturbed, the adults tuck their legs in and drop to the ground. The boll weevil (Anthonomus grandis) may well be the most infamous member of this family in the US. Plum curculio (Conotrachelus nenuphar) is an important weevil pest of tree fruit crops. The black vine weevil (Otiorhynchus sulcatus) and strawberry root weevil (Otiorhynchus ovatus) are common pests in gardens, with the larvae feeding on the roots of many woody shrubs and strawberry. The adults also feed on foliage, producing characteristic notches along leaf margins, that is often mistaken for grasshopper feeding. Euonymous is one of the plants frequently damaged by adult root weevils. The strawberry clipper (Anthonomus signatus) damages strawberries by puncturing unopened buds to deposit an egg inside. The female then cuts the strawberry bud off, preventing fruit formation.
Click beetles get their name from the adult’s method of righting themselves. When on their back, these beetles can snap two parts of the body together, spring up into the air, and land on their feet. The adults are slender, shiny and hard-bodied and are found on leaves and flowers.
These beetles get their common name from their distinctive antennae which are at least ½ the length of the body and sometimes even longer than the body. They tend to be elongate and cylindrical in shape, and often are brightly colored. The colorful species are active during the day, while the dark ones are nocturnal. Many of the 30,000 species worldwide are quite large. Adults typically feed on flowers. The long, white larvae bore into the stems of herbaceous plants or trees, and can be very destructive to trees – the introduced Asian longhorned beetle (Anoplophora glabripennis) is a good example. Other cerambycids that may be encountered in the garden include the red milkweed beetle (Tetraopes tetrophthalmus) on common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) and the brightly colored blue and yellow elderberry borer (Desmocerus palliatus).
Most species in this diverse group of beetles, sometimes called jewel beetles, are fairly large, usually shiny, and sometimes very colorful. Most have a bullet-shaped, very hard body. The adults feed on foliage and the larvae, called flat-headed borers, tunnel in wood. Many species are important forest pests. Some common buprestid pests of ornamentals include bronze birch borer (Agrilus anxius) and chestnut borer (Agrilus bilineatus, which causes significant problems in oak trees in the Midwest. There is a smaller species that attack raspberries. The 
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The days of summer are buzzing in the garden. But not all that buzzes is bad. In fact, of the hundreds of species of insects found in Wisconsin, fewer than 1% are serious threats to our ornamentals and crops. Many of those insects that don’t cause problems are actually beneficial. Their main roles are in pollination of flowers for fruit production and as agents of biological control that keep many of the potentially pesky insects under control. And then there’s the honey, the beeswax, the silk, etc.
Granted, yellowjackets and bald-faced wasps sometimes need no provocation at all. But they only represent a very small percentage of what’s buzzing in the air, unless of course there’s open soda and food and its late July or August.
Some of the most common non-stinging bee mimics are probably hover flies (or flower flies, in the family Syrphidae). They are common and important natural enemies of aphids and other small, slow-moving insects. The adults are often seen visiting flowers, hovering over the flowers and darting around. There are many different species that range in size from less than 1/4 inch long to more than 3/4 inch long. Many have the typical black and yellow stripes on the abdomen that give them a bee-like appearance, but others are hairy with a long, thin abdomen. The adults need flowers as nectar and pollen sources. They are attracted to weedy borders or mixed garden plantings that are also infested with aphids. Some flowers that are especially attractive to hover flies include wild carrot or Queen Anne's lace, wild mustard, sweet alyssum, coriander, dill, and other small-flowered herbs. Females lay their tiny white eggs singly on leaves or shoots near or among aphid colonies. The larvae that hatch in two to three days are small legless maggots that range in color from creamy-white to green or brown. They look somewhat slug-like and are tapered towards the head. The larvae feed on aphids or other insects and move around on the plants in search of prey. Although hover fly larvae feed mainly on aphids, they will eat small caterpillars, thrips and other small insects.
There are also many types of wasps that frequently visit flowers. The vast majority of wasp species are incapable of stinging. Many of these stingless wasps appear to have an external stinger, which, however, is the egg-laying structure (ovipositor). In the stinging bees and wasps this organ is no longer used as an ovipositor, but has become modified for defense. These small wasps are generally parasitic on other insects. The stingless wasps comprise the single largest and most important group of natural enemies of insect pests. The adult female deposits her eggs in or on the host insect, and the larvae that hatch consume the host as they complete their development, eventually killing the host in the process.
With the spring approaching, thoughts turn to visions of lush green foliage, brightly colored flowers and fresh garden produce. What better way to get a jump on the spoils of the summer months than to prepare you fruit trees for a healthy and productive year? Late winter to early spring is the ideal time of year to prune your apple, cherry, peach, pear or plum tree.
The strategies for pruning trees at different ages vary, but there are some basic principles that apply to all fruit trees. 
By pruning and training your fruit tree from the day of planting you can develop a tree that that is strong and has good form for heavy fruit production. To start training fruit trees, remove all side branches on the lower two or three feet of the trunk. Leave the first branch at this level that forms a 45 to 90 degree angle to the trunk. Next, select four or six branches, with wide crotch angles, spaced 8 to 12 inches apart in a spiral pattern up the trunk. Keep these and remove all others flush with the branch collar. Make sure that the leader, or top extension of the trunk, is taller than any of the side branches. If a double leader develops, remove one of the leaders.
When pruning branches it is important to remove the branches properly to maintain the vigor of the tree. Improper pruning can lead to larger wounds that take longer to heal and invite disease or result in stubs which lead to the decay of the remaining branch. 
Sweet corn season is here, and there's nothing like eating freshly harvested ears – unless you find a worm when peeling back the husks! That unwanted intruder is usually the corn earworm, Helicoverpa zea, a caterpillar that eventually grows to 2 inches long. They vary in color, and may be green, brown, pink, black or various shades between these colors, with light and dark stripes along its sides and back. The head is always a yellow or light brown color, without any spots.
There are some sweet corn varieties that show resistance to corn earworm damage. These include Country Gentleman, Stay Gold, Victory Golden, Silver Cross Bantam, and Silvergent.
There are a number of natural enemies that attack corn earworm eggs. A number of tiny Trichogramma, chalcid and braconid wasps parasitize the eggs, while minute pirate bugs (Oriusspp.) eats the eggs and there is a virus that may infect and kill the eggs. There are also wasps that attack corn earworm larvae and pupae, however, these beneficial insects are not numerous enough to provide acceptable control.
Manure is a valuable soil amendment for home gardens. It not only supplies macro and micronutrients for plant growth, but also is a source of organic matter. Increasing soil organic matter improves soil tilth, increases the water holding capacity of sandy soils, improves drainage in clay soils, provides a source of slow release nutrients, and promotes growth of earthworms and other beneficial soil organisms.
Characteristics of fresh manure include high amounts of ammonium or soluble nitrogen resulting in a higher available nitrogen content compared to composted manure. Salts in fresh manure also tend to be high - especially in poultry/turkey manure. Fresh manure may contain high amounts of viable weed seeds, which can lead to a weed problem. Because of the high amounts of ammonia-nitrogen in fresh manure, it should be incorporated 6 to 8 inches within 12 hours after application. Without incorporation much of the soluble nitrogen will be lost to the atmosphere as ammonia. To avoid salt damage, seeding operations should not be done until 3 to 4 weeks after application. Type of bedding or litter will usually decrease manure nutrient content by dilution. If straw or sawdust is used, nitrogen availability may be lowered by increasing the C/N ratio. High carbon relative to nitrogen (greater than 25 /1) will tie up nitrogen.
Composted manure
The analysis of manure or compost provides total nutrient content; however, availability of the nutrients from the manure for plant growth will depend on the breakdown and release from of the organic components. Generally, 70 to 80% of the phosphorus and 80 to 90% of the potassium will be available from manure the first year after application. Calculating nitrogen availability is more complex than for phosphorus and potassium. Most of the nitrogen in manure is in the organic form. This form is considered unavailable for uptake until it is broken down to soluble forms by microorganisms. A smaller fraction of the nitrogen in manure is in the ammonium/ammonia form and is considered immediately available for plant growth. In most cases, manure application is based on its nitrogen content and estimated availability for the first growing season - see table below. It should be remembered that some manure contains high levels of phosphorus, so while plant nitrogen demands are met, soil levels of phosphorus may be building up. Use of soil tests will help in determining the level of phosphorus in the soil as well as the need for further applications.
Collard greens and dill picked this morning for fermenting.
Rainwater harvesting systems have 4 major and very different subsystems:Capture, Conveyance, Holding, and Distribution(non-irrigation systems will include Filtration and Purification).
